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The natural dyestuffs are classified and application
In recent years, because of the enhancement of people‘s environmental consciousness and one‘s own health care consciousness, consumer‘s interest in natural dyestuffs increases day by day. The dyestuffs that the clothes improperlied use in the course of producing in earlier stage, will probably give in person taking the carcinogenesis danger. The characteristic that the natural dyestuffs are dyed is: Naturally, some plant such as madder, getting indigo, utilize, have protection against insects from natural dyestuffs fabric that dye that draw among them and sterilize on function besides charms, in addition, the natural fragrance of dyeing things of natural dyestuffs, its time of fabric is favored by consumer. Although natural dyestuffs can‘t totally substitute the synthetic dyestuffs, it occupies a tiny space on the market, and is paid attention to more and more by people.
1, The classification of the natural dyestuffs: And dye the definition that family‘s association provide according to the British dyestuffs, what the natural dyestuffs refer to getting from the plant, animal or mineral resources, seldom or not undergo the dyestuffs of chemical milling ing. 1.1 classifies the natural dyestuffs by source and can be divided into plant dyestuffs, animal dyestuffs and mineral dyestuffs according to the source, among them take plant dyestuffs as the core. The mineral dyestuffs are various inorganic metal salt and metal oxide, reddish brown, light green, yellow, white, can win more than 20 chromatograms after crushing and mixing piecing together; The plant dyestuffs have madder, Radix Arnebiae, Su Mu, indigo, safflower, pomegranate, yellow Fructus Gardeniae, tea, Song are blue, Herba Arthraxonis Hispidi, persimmon, Radix Arnebiae, tree of ink,etc; The animal dyestuffs are (purple glue) of worm, carmine worm,etc.. Because natural dyestuffs molecular structure have nothing in common with each other, have a greater difference to dye the method. As to the protein fiber and cellulosic fiber, the matchmaker law that after dye the method mainly has matchmaker‘s decoration methods, dyes first and dyeing laws after the matchmaker first. Mainly divided into dyeing of atmosphere and high temperature and dyed under high pressure as to synthetic fibers. Dyeing the craft bestly should depend on dyestuffs property. Especially need to point out, the same kind of natural dyestuffs, when using different mordants to be dyed, will often be enabled and caught the fiber and presented different charms.
1.2 has many kinds of chemical constitution to classify the natural dyestuffs by chemical constitution, make up, can divide into carotenoid kind, anthracene quinone, naphthalene quinones, kinds of flavonoids, ginger flavin kind, indigo kind, chlorophyll 7 altogether according to chemistry. The carotenoid dyestuffs gain the name because of finding in the carrot, there is one pair of keys of long conjugation in the structure (belong to one pair of alkene), orange, mainer dyestuffs have blusher tree orange and Stigma Croci. Red dyestuffs all contain the quinone structure of anthracene, most of them are drawn from the plant, insect or animal, famous because it is good to be able to bear all fastness. Yellow ketone is a colourless organic compound, natural yellow dyestuffs are mostly hydroxyls or first oxygen base substituents of yellow ketone or yellow ketone alcohol. The yellow grass of another name of Herba Arthraxonis Hispidi, horse‘s ear grass, the pigment composition is plain for Herba Arthraxonis Hispidi, is the flavonoids compound, the available direct method dyes cotton, mao, silk bright-colored and yellow, can also adopt and get green by the salt (blue vitriol) mordant dyeing of copper. It is reddish-purple with Tyre that it is indigo that two kinds of mainer natural dyestuffs including indigo kind of structure are. Existed in the plant in form which mixed the body of candy indigoly, generally draw from the indigo plant, soak among water the stem leaf of plant, ferment, hydrolyze, oxidize, get indigo.
Classify the natural dyestuffs in 1.3 colors classified by color and classified by color after referring to dyeing according to the fiber or fabric: There are natural dyestuffs of red, yellow, blue, brown and other colors. Natural dyestuffs that count already with and getting red variety most many getting blue, it is and dark and most little to be getting green. Red dyestuffs are not stored and lain in the nature in a large amount like yellow dyestuffs, the red dyestuffs of great majority are hidden the root of the plant, in the body of the bark or dark gray insect. Though getting red source of dyestuffs limited, they a large number of color bases store of a kind of plant in, so is easy to draw. It is the most beautiful red natural dyestuffs that the blusher worm is red, exist depending on for a living the body of worm‘s red louse of blusher on the cactus, but more mainly and commonly used natural red dyestuffs are madder and shellac; It is the most vivid, the most sufficient dyestuffs in all charms that the nature exists too to be yellow. The quantity of the plant that can produce the yellow dyestuffs is much larger than to produce the quantity of the plant of other colors dyestuffs. The Rhizoma Curcumae Longae dyestuffs are derivatives of Rhizoma Curcumae Longae, and one of the most famous and most bright-colored dyestuffs in the yellow dyestuffs of natural source; From ancient times to the present, it has one of the main and most frequently used blue dyestuffs all the time to be indigo, it is drawn in the leaf of a kind of plant of Asia, Africa, Philippine and U.S.A. and other places from growing; The brown dyestuffs of Catechu are from a kind of name In order to draw in the timber of Catechu, this kind of tree mainly grows in India and other places.
Current application situations of the natural dyestuffs and application prospect are at present, consumption of the natural dyestuffs is only l ten thousand tons, a natural dyestuffs accounting for the synthetic dyestuffs and using the total amount can be got from the plant, animal, mineral, some can also get through biotechnology. It is analysed etc. that there are extraction of water, distillation, column layer in traditional preparation methods of the natural dyestuffs, tradition the prepare shortcoming of method dyestuffs that get grains of foot-path heavy, color fastness bad. At present, most natural dyestuffs exist and dye the problem poor in fastness, even it is still difficult to adopt many kinds of mordants and meet the qualification, especially dry fastness and soap in the sun and wash the fastness. Traditional natural dyestuffs dye method have amount of color given to be low also, dye time pass question such as being long; And the majority of natural dyestuffs should all use mordants while dyeing, and traditional mordant mostly include the heavy metal ion, this deviates from green environmental protection of the natural dyestuffs. In addition, natural dyestuffs mostly stem from the animals and plants, this makes it difficult and standardizes production. Even the same kind of plants, because the producing area is different, the climatic conditions are different, the soil is different and not gathering time with composition and color and luster influencing the pigment, and it is bad that this will inevitablely cause the dyeing repetitiveness of the dyestuffs, moreover, because the content in the plant of natural dyestuffs is few, if you want to get a large number of natural dyestuffs, it is sure to cause the destruction of the ecological environment, all right Does not repay and lose, having violated sustainable development strategy too, this industrialization production of making it difficult to utilize the natural dyestuffs to be dyed.
In order to improve the efficiency that the pigment extracts, researchers replace water and make solvents with ethanol, after crushing the plant, put into airtight container, quench into 95 ethanol, after impregnating for 24 hours, pour the solution, and then impregnate for 6 hours with the same ethanol, repeat it twice. Mix all solutions finally, filter, can regard as the dye liquor, this law applies to the difficulty and dissolves the dyestuffs very much. Dye the problem poor in fastness in order to improve the natural dyestuffs, can adopt the ultrasonic law to deal with the dye liquor, its principle is: The empty phenomenon of melting while utilizing supersonic wave to disperse function, the pressures of thousands of pieces of atmosphere pressure emerge around the microbubble that makes in the liquid, make the dyestuffs solve and gather, thus get the dyestuffs in the particle foot-path, achieve the goal of improving result of dyeing, the solubility among water of some natural dyestuffs is little, in order to reach certain dyeing depth, can adopt the method with dispersant to this kind of dyestuffs, very effective. Make the dyestuffs particle in the dye liquor must use the scattering with the anion or non- ion surfactant, in this way the dye liquor can form more steady dispersible system, and the chance that fabric and dyestuffs contact increases, have the pace of dyeing and accelerate too. The smaller the water-solubility of the dyestuffs is, the more obvious result the ones that added dispersants and dyed are. For the pollution of the environment of heavy metal ion while preventing the natural dyestuffs from being dyed, scientific research worker spend rare earth - citric acid complex as natural Mordant of dyestuffs go on experiment of dyeing by fiber to ramie, experimental result indicate dye result to be better. In order to prevent the abstraction of the natural dyestuffs from causing destroying to the natural environment, people begin to cultivate plants by method to utilize biological engineering, has already cultivated many kinds of plants such as Radix Arnebiae, madder artificially now, the pigment content is higher than the natural plant in the artificial plant that cultivates, make the production of the natural dyestuffs not depend on the plant in the nature like this, and the output is improved by a large margin. Secondly, study the variety of the of good performance natural dyestuffs, determine its structure, study it and formate the method again, this accelerates the industrialization process of the natural dyestuffs greatly, utilize leaf, flower, fruit, rhizome of plant synthetically, and other waste material of industrial production come, draw natural dyestuffs have a realistic meaning very much too.
Conclude the speech on the natural charms with it of natural dyestuffs, protection against insects, function sterilizing, the natural fragrance takes the fancy of common people, have broad development prospects. But it is still unrealistic to enable its commercialization and totally substitute the synthetic dyestuffs at present, obtain and dye the natural dyestuffs to inject new science and technology into, adopt the sophisticated equipment, accelerate its industrialization‘s pace, it is believed that the natural dyestuffs will let the world become more multicoloured. To English clicks this and enters google to translate automatically
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天然染料分类及应用
近年来，由于人们环保意识和自身保健意识的增强，消费者对天然染料的兴趣日益增长。服装在前期生产过程中如果使用不当的染料,很可能给穿着者带去致癌的危险。天然染料染色的特点是：除了色相自然外，有些植物如茜草、靛蓝等，利用从其中提取的天然染料染色的织物还有防虫和杀菌作用，加上天然染料染色物自然的芳香，其织物倍受消费者的青睐。天然染料虽不能完全替代合成染料，但它却在市场上占有一席之地，并且越来越受到人们的重视。

1、天然染料的分类：

根据英国染料和染色家协会给出的定义，天然染料是指从植物、动物或矿产资源中获得的、很少或没有经过化学加工的染料。

1.1按来源分类

天然染料根据来源可分为植物染料、动物染料和矿物染料，其中以植物染料为主。矿物染料是各种无机金属盐和金属氧化物，主要有棕红色、淡绿色、黄色、白色，经过粉碎混拼后可得20多个色谱；植物染料有茜草、紫草、苏木、靛蓝、红花、石榴、黄栀子、茶、崧蓝、荩草、柿子、紫草、墨水树等；动物染料有虫(紫)胶、胭脂红虫等。由于天然染料分子结构各不相同，染色方法也有较大差异。对蛋白质纤维和纤维素纤维而言，染色方法主要有无媒染色法、先染后媒法以及先媒后染法。对合成纤维而言，主要分为常压染色和高温高压染色。最佳染色工艺应根据染料性质而定。特别需要指出的是， 同种天然染料，当使用不同的媒染剂染色时，往往会使被染纤维呈现不同的色相。

1.2按化学结构分类

天然染料有多种化学结构，按化学组成可分为类胡萝卜素类、蒽醌类、萘醌类、类黄酮类、姜黄素类、靛蓝类、叶绿素类共7类。类胡萝卜素类染料因在胡萝卜中发现而得名，结构中有长的共轭双键（属双烯类），为橙色，较主要的染料有胭脂树橙和藏红花。红色染料都含有蒽醌结构，它们大多数是从植物、昆虫或动物中提取的，以耐光牢度好而著称。黄酮是一种无色有机化合物，天然黄色染料大多是黄酮或黄酮醇的羟基或甲氧基取代物。荩草别名黄草、马耳草，色素成分为荩草素 ,是黄酮类化合物，可用直接法染棉、毛、丝得鲜艳的黄色，也可采用以铜盐（蓝矾）媒染得到绿色。含靛类结构的两种较主要的天然染料是靛蓝和泰尔红紫。靛蓝在植物中是以配糖体的形式存在的，一般从蓼蓝中提取的，将这种植物的茎叶浸泡在水中，经过发酵、水解、氧化即得靛蓝。

1.3按颜色分类

按颜色分类是指按纤维或织物染色后的颜色对天然染料进行分类：有红色、黄色、蓝色、棕色和其它颜色的天然染料。已统计的天然染料中以黄色和红色品种最多，蓝色、绿色和黑色最少。红色染料不像黄色染料那样大量存在于自然界中，大多数红色染料隐藏在植物的根、树皮或暗灰色昆虫的躯体中。尽管红色染料的来源有限，但它们在一种植物中存在大量色基，因此容易提取。胭脂虫红是最漂亮的红色天然染料，存在于寄生在仙人掌上的胭脂虫红虱的体内，但较主要和常用的天然红色染料是茜草和紫胶；黄色是最生动的、也是自然界存在的所有色相中最充足的染料。可产生黄色染料的植物的数量比可产生其它颜色染料的植物的数量要多得多。姜黄染料是姜黄的衍生物，是天然来源黄色染料中最有名和最鲜艳的染料之一；从古到今，靛蓝一直是最主要和最常用的蓝色染料之一，它是从生长在亚洲、非洲、菲律宾和美国等地的一种植物的叶子中提取的；儿茶棕染料是从一种名为儿茶的木材中提取的，这种树主要生长在印度等地。

天然染料的应用现状及应用前景

目前，天然染料的用量仅l万吨，占合成染料使用总量的1%。天然染料可从植物、动物、矿物中获得，部分也可通过生物技术获得。天然染料的传统制备方法有水萃取、蒸馏、柱层析等,这些传统制备方法的缺点是获得的染料粒径大、色牢度不好。当前，多数天然染料存在染色牢度差的问题,即使采用多种媒染剂也仍难达到要求，尤其是日晒牢度和皂洗牢度。传统的天然染料染色方法还存在着给色量低，染色时间过长等问题；并且大部分天然染料在染色时都要使用媒染剂，而传统的媒染剂大多含重金属离子，这与天然染料的绿色环保是相背离的。除此之外，天然染料大多来源于动植物，这使得它难以进行标准化生产。即使是同一种植物，由于产地不同、气候条件不同、土壤不同及采集时间不同都会影响色素的组成及色泽，而这必然会导致染料的染色重复性差，再者，由于天然染料在植物中的含量极少，要想获得大量的天然染料，就一定会造成生态环境的破坏，得不偿失，也违背了可持续发展的战略，这都使得利用天然染料染色难以实现产业化生产。

为了提高色素萃取的效能，研究人员用乙醇代替水作溶剂, 将植物粉碎后，放入密闭容器中，倒入95%的乙醇，浸渍24小时后，将溶液倒出，再用同样的乙醇浸渍6小时，重复两次。最后将所有的溶液混合后，进行过滤，即可作为染液，此法非常适用于难溶染料。为了改善天然染料染色牢度差的问题，可采用超声波法对染液进行处理，其原理是：利用超声波分散作用时的空化现象，使液体中的微气泡周围产生上千个大气压的压力，使染料解聚，从而获得微粒径的染料，达到改善染色效果的目的，有些天然染料在水中的溶解度小，为了达到一定的染色深度，可以对这类染料采用加分散剂的方法，效果很好。用阴离子或非离子表面活性剂使染液中的染料颗粒得以分散，这样染液可以形成较稳定的分散体系，而且织物和染料接触的机会也增多，上染速度也加快。染料的水溶性越小，加分散剂染色的效果就越明显。为了避免天然染料染色时重金属离子对环境的污染，科研工作者用稀土-柠檬酸络合物作为天然染料的媒染剂对苎麻纤维进行染色实验，实验结果表明染色效果较好。为了防止天然染料的提取对自然环境造成破坏，人们开始利用生物工程的方法培育植物，现已人工培育出了紫草、茜草等多种植物，人工培育的植物中色素含量比天然植物高，这样使得天然染料的生产可以不依赖于自然界的植物，且产量大幅度提高。其次，研究性能优良的天然染料的品种，测定其结构，再研究其合成方法，这可大大加快天然染料的产业化进程，特别是综合利用植物的叶、花、果实及根茎, 以及其它工业生产的废料来提取天然染料也很有现实意义。

结语

天然染料以其自然的色相，防虫、杀菌的作用，自然的芳香赢得了世人的喜爱，具有广阔的发展前景。但目前要使其商业化并完全替代合成染料还是不现实的，要将天然染料获取及染色注入新的科技，采用现代化设备，加快其产业化的速度，相信天然染料会让世界变得更加色彩斑斓。
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2008-02-02 22:45
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黄荣华
中国植物染色、植物染料技术研发人和倡导者.非物质文化遗产传承人，2012年度中国色彩大奖得主。